Saturday, January 28, 2012

It's All About the Journey...


DAY 1
So many things to tell… Alright, well let me start off with the disclaimer that while I will ATTEMPT to explain how absolutely ridiculous some of the things that have happened in the past few days are, I cannot guarantee I will succeed. One must understand that in each of these it was the insanity of the JOURNEY that was the real clincher, and not where we were going.

 So, on the 26th, my friend Johnny and I decided to go check out Coptic Cairo. Neither of us had done much touristy stuff so far, and everyone else had already been there, so we figured we'd try and catch up. While there we saw The Hanging Church. It's called this because it was built above the southern gate of an older Roman fortress.



You can see the gap between the floor of the church and the roman fortress below.
After The Hanging Church, we walked over to the Church of St. George which is a Greek Orthodox Church built in the 10th Century. Apparently it's the only round church in Egypt. Sure, why not?
 

St. George defeating the dragon (evil)

Finally, we headed off to Ben Ezra Synagogue. On the way there we stopped by a shop to get some earrings I liked. I got to enjoy my first attempt at bartering in Cairo...150LE?? I think not. Try 65. Haggling success. Afterwards we finally got to the synagogue. Unfortunately I couldn't take pictures but Ben Ezra is the oldest Jewish Synagogue in Cairo.

Since we finished up Coptic Cairo fairly quickly, Johnny decided he wanted to go to the pyramids. I was planning on going another day but who's going to complain about seeing the pyramids twice?? So, off we went. And that, my dear friends is when the TRUE adventure began.

First, it took 3 metro rides to get there. Now, in Cairo there are women's cars on the metro, but considering I hadn't yet ridden on the Metro I was hesitant to leave Johnny and get lost somewhere. So, I ended up riding in the regular cars. Not a big deal on the first and last rides, unfortunately however, on the second one one man got a little too excited about having me around. NOT FUN. I have never given someone such an evil look in my entire life. I was freaking pissed. But Johnny felt bad enough about having to take me on the metro, so i decided to wait and inform him about this later. Anyways, so we get off the metro finally and were PLANNING on getting a taxi when a man convinced us to take his microbus. Microbuses are exactly what they sound like; tiny buses. Let me stop here a moment to inform you that previously in the day we had been informed by the Head of the International Study Abroad people to avoid these buses at all costs as they are the most ridiculous of ALL drivers in Cairo. Ah well...we got in anyways.
                                        
    Originally I was sitting in the back right behind the passenger seat, but Johnny convinced me to move. So he sat next to the driver and then I sat next to him in the front seat. Before we even hit the main road we got a taste of the insanity they'd warned me about. As we passed by a small stand selling bread items the driver grabbed some money, hopped out got some bagels and hopped back in. Not too big of a deal, except that the van wasn't in park so we just kept on trucking while he got his bagels. Johnny and I were dying laughing. All I could think was THIS IS NOT REAL LIFE. On the bright side, he gave Johnny and I one of the bagels to split between us. SUCCESS! And off to Giza we went! Oh and remember how I said Johnny had me switch seats? Well, let me tell you...it was a good thing I did. Because we drove the entire 20ish minutes to Giza down the roaring Cairo highway with the side door completely open. hahhahaha

   So the man driving the microbus was ridiculously nice and asked Johnny (he's fluent in Arabic) if we wanted to go horseback riding around the pyramids, because he apparently knew a guy. Well, if you know me, you know i love horses and I mean...i'm in CAIRO. When in Cairo, right? So he dropped us off, hooked us up and we snuck into the pyramids right after it closed with our horses and guide. Now, we assume that he gave me the slightly more ridiculous horse because I'd told them I had ridden before, because Johnny's was definitely not up to par with mine, speed or insanity wise. But, I'm SO glad. I used to ride a lot when I was younger but, I never learned to gallop. I had stopped at cantering (for those of you who don't know canter is the "medium speed" for horses and gallop is the fastest). But this guide reassured us the best and easiest way to get a chance to see everything was to go fast....so gallop we did. 


    GUYS, you're about to get a glimpse into my inner thoughts. You see, when I stress out about things...my immediate desire is to GO. running is fine but what I want  to be doing is RIDING. The feeling of wind rushing past and the landscape flying by is one of the most freeing and exhilarating things you'll ever experience. I have  always wanted to just gallop through a wide open area. No fences, no cares, just open freedom. Well, I came to Egypt and got that chance. Right around the pyramids. Welcome to my dream come true. My history nerd was satisfied, my internal desire for freedom was satisfied....it was absolutely, without a doubt, the best moment of my life.
Anyways, back to the story. I galloped around the pyramids, that was sweet. Our guide was hysterical. He obviously was used to tourists because he came up with the funniest poses to put us in with the pyramids and Sphinx. Also, he told us that the horses we were riding?? Oh yeah, they're the same ones that marched on Tahrir Square the year before. Oh you know, these ones: HORSES IN تحرير
x
Yup. Casual. Then, at one point, while we were galloping through a particularly hilly area my horse's front leg buckled under the sand oddly and I fell off. Johnny and the guide were so worried. I fell onto sand, I literally didn't even feel it. But my poor horse (Pepsi) sure did. I could tell his leg was a little off the rest of the ride. Poor baby. Anyways, overall? It was an AMAZING afternoon. Afterwards they took us to this little tiny museum where a guys howed us how to make papyrus and tell whether or not it's fake or real. Really interesting, actually. He showed and explained to us a few stories that had been drawn onto papyrus. And it was all free! ممتاز!!
Pyramids behind Giza

So, after our adventure at the pyramids, we starrted to walk around Giza. Now understand, that's ALL this was supposed to be. Just a nice little jaunt around Giza and then get a taxi back. Well, 3.5 hours and 9.57 miles later we ended up at Zamalek. Yup. I walked from Giza to Zamalek. That happened. On the way we stopped by the Nile to check out some "boat clubs" and got some great pictures. We were chased for an hour by a child begging for money, and saw a sweet, ridiculously old playground right on the edge of the Nile.


The Nile at night!
RECAP:
bus, metro, microbus, horse, walk---insanity. It's all about the journey right? Stories, to tell. That's what I wanted, that's what I got.

DAY 2 
                                
                         Tiramisu and Oreo cupcakes....
 So the 27th, a few things happened. First, one of my roommates, Anjana and I found this GREAT cupcake place called Nola. Got some super delicious cupcakes.
    Then, me and a few friends went to the International Book Fair in Cairo. I've been to them in DC but to go to one where everything in Arabic was SO surreal. It was amazing. And I picked up some cool stuff including a cheesy poster of Fruits in both Arabic and English, and an ADORABLE "My First Bible" in Arabic, and the parable of the prodigal son in both Arabic and English. Super excited about it. 
                                      
     That night, the original plan was to go to this belly dancing place near Tahrir. It was supposed to be like a club thing where you go and watch them dance and grab drinks and snacks and enjoy. Unfortunately, when we got there we found out that it was closed for construction. So instead, we headed into this really low-key bar next door. and suddenly things went crazy. We're sitting around having drinks and smoking sheesha when one of the guys decides to get up and dance to the music. This, in turn leads to about1.5 hours of the entire place, (about 4 out of the 9 of us) and the locals all dancing. Both to American and Middle Eastern music. We later found out that the 3 women my friend and I were dancing with happened to be prostitutes. It was an extremely entertaining and unexpected night.

                                          

DAY 3
Today, I went with this kid Graham and 2 other girls to this preschool for Sudanese Refugee children. The kids were unbearably cute. It's a Montessori preschool so we got to do lots of activities with them, run around outside and then teach them some English. It was WONDERFUL. Since i've worked with lots of second language kids, through helping my mom out, I felt really at home working with them. Gah, they were SO happy and full of life.


Anyways, sorry about the absurdly long post. I've been too exhausted to write each day. But that's been my life so far! Classes start tomorrow, so i'll be sure to let ya know how that goes. God Bless!

OH. If you want videos for any of these...be sure to check back! I'll have links posted soon! Love ya!

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Updates and Uprisings

Tahrir is to the left, closer to the back




 Today is the one year anniversary of the uprising against Mubarak. Tahrir square is ALIVE with people, celebrations and a general longing for continued change. It is an official holiday so no classes or orientation for me! Businesses around Zamalek are almost all shut down for the day. Last night, I was able to catch a glimpse of the insanity to come with a couple friends. We decided to walk and then (after some excellent bartering on the part of one of the gents), to cruise up the Nile to Tahrir.
Our "Cruise"
Nighttime view of Cairo Tower
                         

           
                                  





We enjoyed a few beers at a local bar and took in the increasing anticipation of those around us. At the time people were only beginning to set up tents, platforms and signs, but despite the rain, and mess the atmosphere of excitement could already be felt. People were whistling, honking and thrilled at the prospect of what the next day would bring.

Unfortunately, because I had already been there last night, and due to safety reasons I ended up not going back in today to see everything for myself. BUT, luckily I have some friends who went in early this morning before things got too insane and lent me some of their wonderful pictures! So here's a small taste of what's happening in Tahrir!

Kefaya originally means "enough" in Arabic, but today it is the unofficial slogan for those Egyptians desiring change. 



Here's a few articles about what's going on in Tahrir today:

Monday, January 23, 2012

The Science of Meeting

    Yesterday, in my survival Arabic class I learned something interesting. In Arabic, the word for sociology (علم الإجتماع) literally means "the Science of Meeting. I couldn't stop thinking about how wonderfully accurate that is in describing my life's current focus. sociology is not only a study of people but of interactions between them. It is a study of what happens when they come together. It is the same study regardless of whether that meeting of people be within a relationship, a society, a religion, or simply a new environment. Sociology studies how all of those different meetings impact the people involved in and around them. So as I come into this ridiculously fascinating new home, I cannot help but wonder what my personal sociological study will turn into. How will I (and the other students) be affected by being thrown into a world so vastly different from our own? Well, here's my attempt at explaining the beginning of that study. =]


GETTING THERE


 So, first things first. I wanted to text at least 5-6 people when this happened, but i'll just have to tell you all now. So, I'm sitting in Dulles, waiting for my plane, chilling out and then suddenly I see this guy. And I start freaking out. Ya'll this guy looked ridiculously similar to Ted Mosby from How I Met Your Mother. I was DYING. It was so fantastic and I was so upset I couldn't text you all so you could appreciate it. Anyways, that was exciting and all. So, the plane gets there and so begins a lovely 8 hour flight to our layover in Zurich, Switzerland.
    The plane ride really wasn't too bad, I sat next to a really lovely woman from Nairobi and while there WERE 5 small children aboard, they were mostly adorable with only a few screams during some of the rougher turbulence. So, overall no complaints. OH WAIT. THAT'S A LIE. I WAS FREAKING OUT OVER ALL THE GERMAN. Because the flight was headed to Zurich, tons of people of different nationalities were on board including my favorite Germans..well okay, they were more likely Swiss, but they spoke German and I was happy. I was only in Zurich for about 2 hours, but oh man. It was so hard to get on that plane to Cairo knowing I was leaving all the German behind. Luckily the next flight was on SWISS airlines, so everything was in English and German anyways, but I still miss it somewhat. Maybe it was a last minute freak-out reflex, but I LOVE German. I'm by no means fluent but I understand enough to have pretty good conversations with people and I just felt so at home being back in a German speaking country. GAHHH  I miss it. Anyways, sorry about the ranting. The flight was lovely, and that's about all.
Greenery to SAND... drastic much?
    Cairo Airport however, was my first taste of Egypt and honestly, it was just sort of funny. I couldn't believe how little security we went through to get into the country. It was wonderful. So I went through got my bags, and found the guy that was supposed to be picking me up and driving me to the dorms in Zamalek. I ended up not being his only passenger though, so I waited for the other two to arrive and well...who do you think happens to be one of them?? ONLY TED MOSBY LOOK ALIKE. Yeah. That Happened. No big deal. hahahahah It was great. I was laughing so hard internally it was pathetic. But, he's a great guy, and he's actually studied at AUC before so that's super convenient in terms of getting to know Zamalek quickly. Friendship success.
   






CAIRO The city itself will by far be the hardest part to write about. I simply do not know how to put Cairo into words. It's a city you have to see to understand. It is the epitome of contrast. Driving around one will see an incredible historical building, rich with culture and too many stories to count. This will be located directly next to the most modern banking building you've ever seen, which happens to also be right across from the saddest, dirtiest heap of buildings, and trash you've ever seen. I don't know what I imagined for Cairo but it's nowhere near what I got. I LOVE IT. Honestly, to some extent I'm not even sure why I love it so much. I don't like grimy cities. The fact that roads are literally covered in trash disgusts me and yet I cannot help but adore the insanity of this city. The discrepancies are so big it's amusing. Driving down the road one will see a BMW followed closely by a beaten up, falling apart bus and then suddenly you'll notice a man driving a cart pulled by a donkey loaded down with egg cartons piled HIGH. Nonetheless, it works. The people here make it work. It's amazing.
McDonalds bil Arabia
                                 

 Insanity:
    Oh also, on the note of crazy things about Cairo let me fill you in on a few more crazy details of this city. First, many, MANY of the houses are unfinished. And not...oh we haven't painted or need a basement. I mean GIANT mansions are left with entire walls
WAITING to be built. Even for the ones that are mostly finished, small things will be left untouched. A few beams might be sticking out the top of a beautiful home, part of a smaller wall might be waiting to be finished....who knows? But, there's a reason for this. You see, if you're home is unfinished you don't pay taxes on it. So people will purposely not finish houses. Somehow, I don't think this can possibly help create a society in which things are completed in both a timely and aesthetically pleasing manner...but not my country so I'll let them figure that one out.
    Second, don't flush the toilet paper. The sewage system in Cairo can't handle it. There are nifty little trashcans to throw all your paper products in when they're done. Weird.
   Third, and DEFINITELY most important. Driving in Cairo may be the world's most dangerous daily activity. Let me give you some road rules that seem to be followed here:
        1. Ignore all road rules
        2. Should you ACTUALLY happen to see lines on the road, ignore them and feel free to continue
             driving as you please
        3. Two lanes actually means four
        4. Driving with lights off is fine....just make sure to honk at night to let others know you're there
        5. Be sure to cram as many cars as possible onto the street
        6. Don't worry about red lights. They don't exist.
        7. Not enough room to park? Feel free to push others' cars to a better position until you can
            comfortably squeeze yours in.
        8. Try not to hit pedestrians crossing major intersections
        9. Avoiding people selling tissues and pepsi off the median is also preferable
       10. Accept the fact that you will never know when a road might be closed off due to a crash, sewage      
             leak etc. and be prepared to back up your giant bus even if it's in the middle of rush hour traffic

I wish this better showed how insane it is.

 I think that pretty much covers it. Cairo driving is ABSURD. It's hilarious, nerve-wracking and I love every minute of it. The rules of the road in Cairo pretty much seem to revolve around the idea of fending for yourself. Cars drive closer and faster than I have ever seen. It's amazing that Egyptians can navigate it.

       
 Dorm:
     The Zamalek dorms are wonderful. very pretty and our rooms are HUGE. We've got plenty of space, nice showers (minus the occasional lack of hot water) and a nice common area to hangout in before going to dinner, heading to bars or simply walking around. The other AUC study abroad students are fantastic. I LOVE my roommates Neama and Anjana. We have such a good time laughing and chatting.
     Speaking of meeting people...the first day I arrived was interesting. I came in knowing no girls whatsoever and by the time I got to the dorms themselves I already knew 4 guys. Two from school and 2 from the ride over. So, as we planned to go to dinner that night there sat 11 guys and me. The lone girl other than one RA. At dinner one of the girls thought i'd been in Zamalek for a few years already because of how well I seemed to know all the guys. hahahah Story of my life. One of our RAs is really hilarious, after 2 minutes of conversation decides to jokingly ask me out to embarrass me in front of all the lovely new people i'd just met. We're obviously going to be great friends. haha=] Well, I kinds asked for that one, eh? But, I really am loving getting to know everyone. The people here are really interesting, very driven and just generally easy to get along with. We went out to a bar the other night and just had an amazing time chatting and getting to know one another. Tonight we went and found a hookah bar to hangout in for a while and just chilled and joked around. LIFE IS GOOD.

SCHOOL
    So classes don't officially start until the 29th, but we have orientation until then. It's been long but not too bad so far. The bus ride to school is LONG, but the views are so intriguing and it's great for getting homework/sleep in when needed. AUC itself is BEAUTIFUL. I'm talking...it looks like I go to school at a resort. (i'm serious. Google image search: AUC Egypt campus) It was pretty windy the first day, but getting a chance to walk around it today I'm consistently amazed at how stunningly beautiful it is with it's architecture, palm trees and generally attractive male population. haha just kidding...sort of. Currently, I'm taking a "Survival Arabic" course which is basically a crash course in colloquial Arabic. The class is extremely long (5hours), but my teacher is so nice and insanely patient with me. Although, I will admit that patience wasn't all that necessary until we started reviewing numbers today. DARN YOU NUMBERS. I can't deal with them in English much less Arabic... But I do feel like I've learned a lot. I came in having not taken Arabic in about ten months and after 2 days I remember a ton, and learned more than I thought I could about the different pronunciations within the colloquial. I'm starting to pick up more and more words I hear around. LOVEEEEEEEE. But i'm still too intimidated to say anything more than "thank you",   "you're welcome",  and at one point I was in fact able to put together enough Arabic to ask if someone spoke English and where the bus was. Success? ehh...getting there=]

Anyways, that's pretty much all for now. Sorry for the absurdly long post. I love you all!

 مع السلامة

Friday, January 20, 2012

One Day I'll Fly Away, Leave All This To Yesterday

So, after a few months of praying, waiting and hoping.... I'M OFF TO EGYPT TODAY!You know that feeling you get before giving a presentation, diving off the high-board, or waiting at the top of the drop-zone at KD?? Welcome to my life since 7:30am.

In the past few weeks people were constantly asking me if I was excited for Egypt. My response to just about everyone was "No". It's not that I wasn't excited about my trip, I simply didn't even feel like I was going. The insanity of it all just hadn't hit me yet. Well, for those of you who were concerned, i'm happy to inform you that I OFFICIALLY feel like I'm going to Egypt. After staying up until 4am packing and watching Pride and Prejudice (had to get it in one more time before I left), I was woken up by my mother EARLY this morning and haven't been able to go to sleep since. But it's okay. It's my ultimate adrenaline rush.

Today i'm GOING. I'm heading off to a vastly different world from anything I know. I'm starting a magnificent adventure. While on the one hand I am extremely sad about leaving UVA, my house, friends and family. I know, that allowing another country to become home, even for a short while, is what I've been craving for a very long time. I cannot wait to walk the streets of Cairo and feel as if there is no where more normal. I cannot wait to show others my favorite places to eat in Zamalek. I cannot wait to see the Pyramids, the Sphinx, and the Nile. I cannot wait to try my Arabic with others and allow Egypt to completely envelop me.

The one thing I actually am fairly nervous about is that my faith will weaken without the daily encouragement and enthusiasm of those around me. But, I'm praying that I'll meet someone I can talk to, share with and lean on as I walk through this semester with God. In John 14:27, Christ says : Peace I leave with you; my peace I give you. I do not give to you as the world give. Do not let your hearts be troubled and do not be afraid." While the world may give me a temporary peace, God is offering me the eternal rest in knowing that in everything He is working for my good. So, I cannot worry too much about anything as I take off, because thankfully, God always knows exactly what i need to hear=]

So, in 7.5 hours I will be on a plane headed to Zurich, and then from there headed to Cairo. By 8am tomorrow I will have touched down in the land of the pyramids. That's gonna be a culture shock. Until then, I love you all and i'm praying for you!


Isaiah 41:10
DO NOT FEAR, for I am with you
DO NOT DISMAY, for I am your God.
I WILL STRENGTHEN and HELP you.
I WILL UPHOLD you, with my RIGHTEOUS right hand.